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Category:Asia/Philippines/Metro Manila/Makati City/Land Rover Club Of The Philippines/

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Land Rover Club of the Philippines

LRCP Logo

Suppliers/Services

  • LRPhils Motors, Inc. - the exclusive distributor of Land Rover vehicles in the Philippines.
    • Showroom: ENZO Bldg. G/F, 399 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave. Makati City; Tel: +632 897 8888
    • Service Centre: 3904 Quingua St. Makati; Tel: +632 881 7252
  • 5 R AGRO INDUSTRIAL CORPORATION
    • 334 E. Miranda St., Paso de Blas, Valenzuela City; Tel: 292-84-18; 292-60-10; 292-59-42; Fax: 292-59-92; email: v5r-agro@i-manila.com.ph; owned by Raul L. Rodriguez/Porfirio L. Rodriguez. they have good used Series parts.
  • Timmy Bernardino
    • Xavierville, Quezon City; Tel 09163383100. he imports land rover parts.
  • Joseph Steven Cu/ Joel Buse (Asia/Philippines/Metro_Manila/Pasig_City/Kapitolyo/Mantech_Philippines/)
    • #4 Brixton St. Bo Kapitolyo , Pasig; Phone: 7990174; <mantechphil@gmail.com>. manufactures aftermarket Land Rover parts; does custom metal fabrication-machining; supplies thermal and acoustic insulation. Servicing : Land /Rover (rovacom equipped) , BMW , Audi, Mercedes Servicing
  • RANGELAND
    • office at 269 KATIPUNAN Ave., Quezon City; Tel 4341910; email: <garcon@edsamail.com.ph>; owned by Bobby E. Jose. they service and supply land rover parts.
  • Bert Ilagan
    • Miami Street, Cubao, Quezon City; tel 9120545. he imports land rover parts.
  • Josue (Joey) P.Pasiona
    • 49 Tagbilaran Street, Pael Subd., Culiat, Quezon City; Phone: 926-2496; Fax: 414-5623; he has good used Series parts.
  • JACU AUTO RESTORATION & FIBERWORKS
    • 9 Calixto Mariano St., Bgy Palingon-Tipas, Taguig City; Phone: 0920 6053050; email: <JACU.FIBERWORKS@gmail.com>, ; contact Alex Uy. does Auto Restoration (detailing, painting, upholstery etc) and custom Carbon/fiberglass products manufacturer.
  • Paolo C. San Mateo
    • British Petroleum dealer (BMW, Porsche, and Rover spec motor oil, GL-5 gear oil, hydraulic and ATF fluids, coolant, etc.), Armark Dealer (Warn winches, TJM supension systems and snorkels, etc.), Dunlop tires. Cell: 0919-5543111 adlin@pacific.net.ph
  • Ladi
    • Very competent rover mechanic in Alabang - 8004945
  • Clover Motor Supply, Inc.
    • 948 benavidez St., Binondo, Manila 1006; Tel No.: 244-8274, 244-8277, 244-8434, 244-8436; Discounted Air Cleaners and Oil Filters

Pictures & Videos

Mt. Pinatubo GPS Tracks on Google Earth
Mt. Pinatubo GPS Tracks on Google Earth
Mt. Pulag GPS Tracks on Google Earth
Mt. Pulag GPS Tracks on Google Earth
  • Club Meetings
    • 2000-03-11 Club Meeting at Fat Willy's, The Fort [1]
    • 2000-10-14 Lake Caliraya Meeting [2]
    • 2001-11 LRCP at Highlands, Tagaytay [3]
    • 2007-06 Car Club Meet at San Miguel [4]
  • 4x4 Races
    • 2001-07-21 3rd leg of the Philippine Elimination Series for the Rainforest Challenge ("RFC") [5]
  • Hi-Peak, Zambales
    • 2001-05-17 LRC with Sports Unlimited [6]
    • 2002-02 LRCP [7]
    • 2002-05 LandRoverClub.NET Article [8]
  • Mt. Pinatubo
    • 2001-11-30 Land Rover Club joins Angeles City 4x4 Club [9]
    • 2004-06 Pinatubo Videos [10]
  • Tanay
    • 2000-08-27 Daraitan River crossing [11]
    • 2007-08 Off Road Driving Clinic Philippines [12]
    • 2007-08-11 4x4 Clinic@Tanay Video [13]
    • 2007-08 Range Rover Sport crossing Daraitan Rover [14]
    • 2010-06-27 Land Rover Club of the Philippines Get-Together, 4WD Driving Clinic & Gymkhana [15]
  • Mt. Pulag
  • Car Shows
  • Other Events
    • 2001-06-15 Promotion of Tomb Raider Movie [16]
    • 2002-11 C! Magazine Range Rover Feature Tagaytay [17]
    • 2003-03 Lake Caliraya Crossing by Steven Cu [18]
    • 2004 Cordilleras [19]
    • 2006-10 Defender as a Bridal Car [20]
    • 2007-08 School books for Dinapigue, Isabela and relief goods for Casiguran, Aurora [21][22]
    • 2007-09 Isabela Trip for Kapuso Foundation [23]

Maintenance Tips

  • Defender
    • Corroded hood and side-door fasteners
      • All Defenders suffer from corroded hood and side-door fasteners. The zinc-plated factory fasteners are just not up to resisting corrosion after years of exposure to the elements. These fasteners are unsightly, corrode in place and make maintenance more difficult, and also stain bodywork. Eliminate the corroded bolt heads and bodywork stains by replacing your Defender 90's factory hood and door fasteners with a MUD-UK Stainless Bolt Set. The MUD-UK Stainless Bolt Set its all 90, 110, 130, Station Wagon, Double Cab, and NAS Defenders, but the set is complete only for two-door Defenders. Each MUD-UK Stainless Fastener Set is made up of A2-grade stainless steel fasteners that will not corrode and will not stain the bodywork. [24]
    • Clutch pedal, master and slave cylinders
      • As per LR Publication No. LDASCEEN97, it is recommended that for all Defender95/96/97MY - All Models:
        • 1. At 40,000 km (24k miles) intervals or every 2 years whichever is earlier, the hydraulic brake/clutch fluid should be completely renewed.
        • 2. At 80,000 km (48k miles) intervals or every four years whichever is earlier, all hydraulic brake/clutch fluid seals, brake servo filter and flexible hoses should be renewed.
      • Whenever you drain your fluids, make it a point to replace all rubber kits as well.
    • Engine Smoke
      • If its a black cloud or puff upon starting, the D110 300Tdi engine is normal. Its not caused by your engine, but the poor quality diesel fuel locally available (barely Tier IV; versus the Tier I or II in europe or north america). Most of the 300Tdi engines have the same probem. If its constantly smoking, then it must be something to do with the air cleaner element, the fuel filter, sedimenter, EGR valve (if any), engine timing, injection pump, etc. .
      • During change oil have the following checked/cleaned
        • 1) check timing/valve clearances
        • 2) have the intercooler cleaned
        • 3) have engine breather cleaned
        • 4) have exhaust pipe cleaned
      • If all above fails, it would be probably somewhere else ie injectors / injection pump. Also, there was a thread on the list sometime ago about diesel fuels and i think shell was the one considered the cleanest so far.
      • At 75KM, maybe there is need to look at the required service interval for the fuel injection pump. Is it also possible that your engine oil level is much on the high side mark. A little bit of "too high engine oil level" in the oil sump has propensity to get past the piston rings (assuming same ring and engine conditions)and result into more smoke in the exhaust.
      • I asked a exhaust maker to weld a 1inch diameter X 3inch lenght galvanized tube with screwable cap(the one used in plumbing) on the exhaust pipe, under the manifold just when it bends down the lowest part. Having installed that you can now fill your whole exhaust system with soapy water. Close the end part using plastic wrap and tie with rubber band or something. After an hour or more( some do it overnight) open the end and run the engine until all of the water comes out. It will come out messy with really black water so you may need to prepare something to catch it. You can run fresh water from the hose while the engine is running until you can see clear water coming out from the tail pipe end. For the soapy water I think the stronger the better. I use Joy(brand) liquid soap with laundry powder. You may have to do some invention to help you if your going to do this from time to time. I do it once every 2 months. I bought a plastic funnel( bigger is better) and connect a hose, maybe 3 feet lenght and from the engine bay run the hose down to the tube opening. This will help you pour the soapy water because for the 110 it might need 3 gallons of it. Dont forget to close the tube cap. Some say this can destroy the internals of the muffler/silencer but Id rather than being flagged down for smoke belching.
      • I have had my TDi's timing fine tuned at Rover Parts and Victor the mechanic does a good job. You can actually notice more smoke and no smoke from the exhaust as the timing is set and reset. However there's a trade-off. More smoke means less noisy engine and less smoke means noisier engine.
    • Clutch Use and Maintenance
      • Soft clutch is Borg & Beck clutch disc. Original clutch is Valeo.
      • Lesson: that clutch pedal in no-play position should have been checked early on, as this was not the result of a simple "comfort" setting but was symptomatic of a larger problem down below.
      • Lesson: clutch-riding (perhaps the former user was guilty of this; I am, sometimes) is a very expensive bad habit.
      • Why the scouring? Ladi thinks this is due to mixing up different types of clutch fluid. Manny G., to whose RR this also happened, says that the clutch fluid probably has a corrosive effect that is supported by lack of wear; a clear case of "if you don't use it, you'll lose it."
      • Corollary lesson: Another defender's clutch, also replaced by Ladi, manifested another bad driving habit. The clutch disk's outer perimeter, the 2-in wide circumference to which the fiber clutch disk is bonded, was starting to get torn out of the central part of the plate, as the metal parts in between the slots were exhibiting cracks. Analysis is that the driver was almost always releasing the clutch too suddenly, placing too much shearing stress on that part of the plate.
      • The Defender Workshop Manual provides the following key measurements:
        • 1) edge of the clutch pedal to the floor of the footwell, without mat -- 140mm;
        • 2) pushrod freeplay, between the pushrod and master cylinder -- 1.5mm
        • 3) free movement of the clutch pedal at the pad -- 6mm.
      • If done to spec, the clutch pedal is slightly lower than the brake pedal.


  • Range Rover Classic

Classifieds

View Land Rover Classified Ads in BuyAndSellPlus.COM
View Land Rover Classified Ads in BuyAndSellPlus.COM

For listings, visit [25].

Links

  • Waxoyl sources
  • Land Rover 2
  • Car Links

Important tips in Filling-up Gas

  • Fill up your car or truck in the morning when the temperature is still cool. Remember that all service stations have their storage tanks buried below ground; and the colder the ground, the denser the gasoline. When it gets warmer gasoline expands, so if you're filling up in the afternoon or in the evening, what should be a gallon is not exactly a gallon. In the petroleum business, the specific gravity and temperature of the fuel (gasoline, diesel, jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum products) are significant. Every truckload that we load is temperature- compensated so that the indicated gallonage is actually the amount pumped. A one-degree rise in temperature is a big deal for businesses, but service stations don't have temperature compensation at their pumps.
  • If a tanker truck is filling the station's tank at the time you want to buy gas, do not fill up; most likely dirt and sludge in the tank is being stirred up when gas is being delivered, and you might be transferring that dirt from the bottom of their tank into your car's tank.
  • Fill up when your gas tank is half-full (or half-empty), because the more gas you have in your tank the less air there is and gasoline evaporates rapidly, especially when it's warm. (Gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating 'roof' membrane to act as a barrier between the gas and the atmosphere, thereby minimizing evaporation. )
  • If you look at the trigger you'll see that it has three delivery settings: slow, medium and high. When you're filling up do not squeeze the trigger of the nozzle to the high setting. You should be pumping at the slow setting, thereby minimizing vapors created while you are pumping. Hoses at the pump are corrugated; the corrugations act as a return path for vapor recovery from gas that already has been metered. If you are pumping at the high setting, the agitated gasoline contains more vapor, which is being sucked back into the underground tank, so you're getting less gas for your money. Hope this will help ease your 'pain at the pump'

Gallery

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